Phantom diner: Charbay Fridays at the Cantinetta
Many a fan of Tra Vigne’s Cantinetta Wine Bar was disappointed to hear that it would be closed all summer for private events. When I heard the news I immediately called to see if perhaps this was merely a spurious, unfounded rumor. My hopes were dashed when my fears were confirmed. But, as it turned out, all was most definitely not lost. The Cantinetta would be serving appetizers and cocktails featuring Domaine Charbay artisan spirits and wines every Friday from 2 to 5 p.m., an event which was open to all.
That very Friday afternoon I enlisted a fellow Tra Vigne/Charbay fan and headed off to the Cantinetta to check it all out. Since Charbay’s artisan spirits are not available for tasting at their Spring Mountain distillery, this would be an excellent opportunity to sample them while indulging in Tra Vigne’s exquisite cuisine which was to be served in smaller portions at a very approachable price.
Once seated, my companion and I looked over the menu and marveled at the Charbay Signature Cocktails priced at only $10.50 each. He immediately selected the Blood Orange Vodka Negroni made with cranberry juice and Aperol (an Italian aperitif similar to yet softer than Campari, and whose “secret ingredients” include bitter orange, gentian, cinchona and rhubarb).
I, on the other hand, tend to ponder what I shall order with a feverish intensity most people reserve for making potentially life-altering decisions. This admittedly requires a sizable investment of time as well as a laudable degree of patience on the part of my dinner companions. But at long last I opted for the pure simplicity of a Charbay Vodka Martini with a twist of lemon.
Dreamy, hypnotic “acid jazz” was playing in the background, and we soon fell under its spell. The cocktails were shaken then served to us in frosted martini glasses. The alluring Blood Orange Vodka Negroni was so irresistible — its beautiful rose-pink hue and ruby highlights contrasting with the stark white tablecloth — that I cast aside all propriety and asked my companion for first one sip and then another before contentedly retiring to my excellent vodka martini.
Next we turned our attention to the “Small Bites” menu featuring eight appetizers, each available for only $8 with the purchase of a Charbay cocktail. After lengthy deliberation, I ultimately decided upon the Mozzarella Cheese Al Minuto (“handmade at the moment ordered”) while my companion chose the Monterey Bay Calamari Fritti. We agreed in advance to equal timeshare on both.
When my appetizer was placed in front of me I had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming. How could this much gloriously beautiful food cost only $8 at a restaurant in Napa Valley? Surely I was in some sort of a time warp which I needed to snap out of toot sweet. One could scarcely buy that much fresh mozzarella at a local market at an equivalent price let alone replicate this delectably prepared presentation.
Atop the mozzarella was a sprinkling of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, while beneath it laid a pleasurable puddle of fragrant, flavorful olive oil. The dish was accompanied by three generous slices of grilled bruschetta brushed with garlic-infused olive oil and topped with a sprig of fresh rosemary. This was undeniably euphoria on a plate.
My companion was equally as thrilled with his calamari which was lightly breaded and fried to a perfect crispness on the outside yet pleasantly sweet and tender within. Accompanying the calamari was a wedge of sweet-tart Meyer lemon which had a fine beading of crushed red pepper on its edge.
After some experimentation we discovered that the best way to enjoy this appetizer was by alternating nibbles of calamari with tiny bites of chile-flecked lemon. We both decided to opt out, however, on the ramekin of puttanesca sauce which seemed too salty and robustly flavored to be accompanying this delicate dish.
We unintentionally overheard someone at a neighboring table talking about the 2006 Charbay Rosé, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, syrah and pinot noir. Instantly intrigued, my companion and I both ordered a glass for immediate, unabashed consumption. With an initial aromatic prelude of cranberries and a fine misting of orange zest, the palate was then met with a brief zing of tartness followed by the essence of perfectly ripened black cherries. Cranberry made a gracious curtain call during the long and lingering finish.
A small word of advice should you decide to drop by — the politely proffered glass of ice water is to be avoided at any and all cost. It positively reeks of chlorine which assaults one’s senses in a most rude and impudent manner. (Bottled water is available.) Another minor heads up: no reservations are accepted and seating is on a first-come, first-served basis only. If you would prefer to sit indoors you might want to come in early, as there are only three tables that seat four each plus 11 stools at the bar. Crowds begin to build later in the afternoon.
But with the glorious summertime weather we have here in Napa Valley, the obvious first choice for most will be to dine al fresco in Tra Vigne’s lovely courtyard. First, place your food and beverage order at the bar inside the Cantinetta, then carry your drinks outside to a table where a food runner will deliver your appetizers shortly.
During future visits, other items I definitely want to try include the four Charbay vodkas (pomegranate, blood orange, green tea and clear) that one can taste for $9 each or enjoy as a flight of all four for $18. Another tantalizing option is the flight of four Domaine Charbay wines for $20.
Appetizer-wise, next time I visit I am making a direct beeline for the smoked and braised beef short ribs with three cheese polenta, natural jus and horseradish gremolata — and perhaps the house-cured salame as well. After all, as they say, you only live once.
Hours: 2-5 p.m. every Friday through to the end of this year.
Address: 1050 Charter Oak, St. Helena
Phone: (707) 963-4444.
(The Phantom Diner — who as a child dreamed of someday becoming both a secret agent and a chef — finally found her true calling in life writing undercover restaurant reviews for the St. Helena Star.)
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